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Clarksdale Mississippi
Clarksdale Mississippi

Ricky “Soul Man” Burton at Ground Zero Blues Club, Clarksdale

After the earlier majorette jamboree in Memphis, I drove down to Tunica for the Rosa Fort Jamboree, but that one proved to be quite a disappointment. If drumlines are becoming rarer at Memphis jamborees, they are non-existent at Mississippi ones. After an hour and a half or so, I decided to leave and drive down to Clarksdale to the legendary Ground Zero Blues Club. They were having a Pre-Valentine’s Day Bash with Ricky “Soul Man” Burton and the Basic Soul Band, so there was a fairly substantial cover charge, and, once inside, I found the place packed to the rafters. The TV’s were flashing the breaking news about Whitney Houston’s death as I looked in vain for a table. Finally, I was directed to a table where a French family was sitting, and I was able to sit down and order food. The band and vocalists were quite good, and the audience included a lot of radio personalities from Helena’s Delta Force III and Clarksdale’s WROX.

The Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival is probably the second-biggest tourist attraction in Clarksdale, surpassed only by the April Juke Joint Festival. Both are characterized by great music, great food and good times. 

The Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival is probably the second-biggest tourist attraction in Clarksdale, surpassed only by the April Juke Joint Festival. Both are characterized by great music, great food and good times. 

South of downtown Clarksdale across the railroad tracks is a historic African-American neighborhood known as New World, which apparently took its name from a night club of that name which was located near the railroad depot in the early 20th century. Sam Cooke was born in the neighborhood before his family moved to Chicago.

South of downtown Clarksdale across the railroad tracks is a historic African-American neighborhood known as New World, which apparently took its name from a night club of that name which was located near the railroad depot in the early 20th century. Sam Cooke was born in the neighborhood before his family moved to Chicago.

Later in the evening, Ground Zero Blues Club set up an outdoor stage next to their building, and a soul band from Cleveland was performing a lot of southern soul covers and drew a crowd. A couple of guys rode up on horseback! Only in Clarksdale!

Later in the evening, Ground Zero Blues Club set up an outdoor stage next to their building, and a soul band from Cleveland was performing a lot of southern soul covers and drew a crowd. A couple of guys rode up on horseback! Only in Clarksdale!

The Main Stage next door to the Delta Blues Museum is the nerve center of the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival. The stage featured several different kinds of music, and there was plenty of good food available from the many vendors. 

The Main Stage next door to the Delta Blues Museum is the nerve center of the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival. The stage featured several different kinds of music, and there was plenty of good food available from the many vendors. 

Sunflower Avenue has fallen on hard times in recent years, although it used to be the center of Clarksdale blues tourism. There are a few signs of a renaissance though, including the new Lady at the Levee restaurant and the Quapaw Canoe Company, which offers tourists the opportunity to go canoeing on the Sunflower or Mississippi Rivers.